Mario Piacenza / Italy / 1912 / 13 min / Colour

Restored by Museo Nazionale del Cinema di Torino, in collaboration with Fondazione Piacenza and Museo della Montagna of Torino, at L’Immagine Ritrovata laboratory, from a positive tinted print, a dupe negative safety and fragments of the original camera negative

In 1911, Mario Piacenza with the alpine guides Joseph Gaspard e Joseph Carrel decided to tackle the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Furggen ridge, which had never been attempted. He had already climbed this giant of the Alps in 1906, at the age of 22, via the Zmutt ridge. The second time, he documented the salient features of the climb with a movie camera, creating a work that surprises for its ability to narrate the enterprise with immediacy and enthusiasm, especially if one thinks of the impervious conditions in which it was carried out.

  • Mario Piacenza

    Mario Piacenza

    Mario Piacenza (1884-1957), a wool entrepreneur from the Biella area and a mountaineer by passion, was an authentic and daring explorer of the most impervious European and non-European peaks. He explored the Caucasus and Ladakh, ascending with his crew on two seven-thousanders, the Nun Kun and the Z3 (also known as "Cima Italia"). He was also a pioneer of mountaineering photography and cinematography, being among the first to document these untouched environments.


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